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We appreciate your confidence in our IceCap product. If you are missing any information, have an issue with the product, or simply have a question, please don't hesitate to contact our support staff at support.coralvue.com.
The IceCap In-Sump UV sterilizer can be used for both saltwater and freshwater aquariums to help control and even eradicate parasites, algae, fungi, bacteria, and protozoa without the use of harmful chemicals or biocides. When set up, maintained, and properly operated, the high-output UV light will irradiate free-floating microorganisms as it passes through the sterilizer. The Icecaps’ UV lamps emit a wavelength that will alter and disrupt the DNA or RNA of single-celled organisms.
When installing and using this electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should always be followed. Ultraviolet light is damaging to your eyes and skin! NEVER handle or stare at an operating UV lamp.
Always unplug the unit from an electrical outlet when not in use or before servicing or cleaning. If the UV unit shows any sign of water leakage, immediately unplug it from the power source.
The IceCap UV Sterilizer must be used in conjunction with a properly grounded GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). If an extension cord is necessary, a cord with a proper rating should be used. A power cord rated for fewer amp or watts than the appliance’s rating may overheat. If in doubt consult a qualified electrician.
All IceCap UV Sterilizer In-Sump models are packaged complete, with all necessary components that are required to operate the unit. When unpacking your new IceCap sterilizer take a complete component inventory to ensure that all components are included and nothing is damaged. It is essential that the unit be carefully handled and inspected before installing and connecting to electric power. The quartz sleeve and or the UV lamps are fragile and may have been broken or damaged during shipping. Refer to your model below.
(1) Quartz Sleeve Housing Nut
(2) Gasket for Quartz Sleeve
(3) Vessel Cover
(4) Vessel Cover Seal
(5) UV Internal Vessel
(6) Quartz Sleeve
(7) High-Output UV Lamp
(8) External Vessel Housing
(9) Feed Pump
(10) High-output UV Ballast
(11) Power Pump Supply
(12) Feed Pump Controller
(13) Mounting Ring
(10) Flow Restrictor
(11) Output Down Pile
(12) High-output UV Ballast
(13) Output Valve O-Ring
(14) Retaining Bolts
(15) Directional Output Elbow
The Power Supply is not waterproof and should never be mounted over water. Do not submerge the power supply in water or bury where heat and moisture can be retained. With the convenient mounting clips on the ends of the power supply and two screws (not included), mount the power supply out of the way but within range of the sterilizer itself.
The sweet spot for reducing bacteria and algae using a UV system is to have the water flow through at a rate of 3 to 4.5 times the total tank volume every hour. So, if you're working with a 50-gallon tank, you want the water to move at a pace of 150 to 225 gallons per hour through the UV sterilizer.
Now, when you're dealing with Ich, Flukes, and other fish parasites, things get a bit more complicated. You will need to slow down the water flow through the UV sterilizer to eradicate them as they pass through. To obtain results, decrease the flow by as much as 50-75% compared to what you would use to tackle bacteria and algae. Ideally, you're looking at a turnover rate of 0.5 to 1.5 times the total tank volume per hour. For a 50-gallon tank, that translates to having 25 to 75 gallons per hour passing through the UV sterilizer to effectively wipe out those parasites.
Step 1 - Install Feed PumpInstall feed pump by pushing the output of the pump into the bottom of the external vessle housing.
Step 2 - Install Quartz Sleeve
Carefully insert the quartz sleeve into the cavity at the top of the internal UV. Be careful not to drop the sleeve into the UV and damage it.
Step 3 - Connect UV Lamp to SocketWhile carefully gripping the UV lamp, insert the prongs of the lamp into the socket from the ballast cord. If the pins don't line up, spin the lamp until they do. Push the connected socket with the UV lamp into the quartz sleeve until the lamp touches the bottom.
Step 4 - Insert UV LampCarefully insert UV lamp into the quartz sleeve previously installed within the UV vessel. Be sure not to touch the lamp with your bare hands. Wipe away any oils or fingerprints from the lamp's surface before installing and operating.
Step 5 - Thread Ballast Nut Thread the ballast nut clockwise into the top of the UV housing. Hand tighten only, never use tools.
Step 6 (27w & 40w Only) - Install Output PlumbingInsert downpipe into UV output. Then insert and angle the output elbow to your desired direction. There is no need to glue the connections.
Step 7 - Tighten Ballast Cord Retainer Thread cord retainer clockwise until a tight grip has been made around the cord. Do not over tighten.
Step 8 - Place Assembled UV into the Sump Place the assembled UV into the sump. Be careful not to get any of the electrical components of the UV wet. Plug feed pump into an active power outlet. Be sure that when power to the system is off that the top portion of the UV remains above the water level.
Step 9 - Power On UV When no leaks are observed you can connect the UV light ballast to the GFCI protected power source. The UV lamp ballast will beep when first powered and display a green status indicator when in operation.
Over time, the efficiency of the sterilizer will start to decline because the lamp no longer emits the same amount of energy, and the quartz sleeve that encloses the lamp can become coated with mineral deposits and turn cloudy. Replacing the quartz sleeve about once a year, along with the UV lamp, will ensure your UV sterilizer functions like it did on day one. Most reefers will know it’s time to replace the bulb and sleeve when algae begins to grow more rapidly on the glass, rock, and other surfaces.
Red light and audible alarm from UV lamp ballast upon plugging in
Issue - The ballast will alarm to indicate an ignition failure usually from a bad UV lamp.
Solution - Check all electrical connections to the lamp to ensure they are fully seated and show no visible damage. If the alarm persists after inspection, it is recommended to replace the lamp.