IceCap VHO Wire Harness
SKU: IC-VHOHAR
- Direct OEM Ballast Fit: Factory-original replacement wiring harness engineered specifically for IceCap 660 (IC-660) and IceCap 430 (IC-430) electronic ballasts.
- Pre-Wired Quick-Disconnect Plug: Features a heavy-duty molded multi-pin connector block that snaps directly into the ballast header for tool-free, secure ballast swaps.
- High-Temperature Rated Leads: High-grade, heat-resistant stranded copper wires engineered to safely handle high-frequency ballast ignition voltages without thermal degradation.
- Standardized Factory Color Coding: Retains original factory wire insulation colors (red, blue, yellow, orange, brown) to simplify rewiring and multi-lamp schematics.
- Generous 6-Foot Lead Length: Provides 6 feet of reach from the ballast mounting location to canopy-mounted waterproof endcaps.
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IceCap VHO Wire Harness
Powering high-output fluorescent lighting over a reef aquarium requires clean, secure high-frequency electrical connections from the ballast to the lamp endcaps. The IceCap VHO Wire Harness (SKU: IC-VHOHAR) is the official OEM 6-foot replacement wiring harness engineered specifically for IceCap 660 and IceCap 430 Electronic Ballasts.
IceCap electronic ballasts operate at high frequencies (22–25 kHz) to ignite and run T12 Very High Output (VHO), T5 High Output (T5HO), and Power Compact (PC) fluorescent bulbs at maximum lumen output and efficiency. Inside humid aquarium canopies, wiring leads are continuously exposed to saltwater moisture, heat from lamps, and airborne salt crust. Over years of service, harness wires can become brittle, suffer heat hardening near the endcaps, or develop corrosion at connection joints. The IC-VHOHAR harness features a factory-pinned quick-disconnect plug that mates securely with the header on IceCap 660 and 430 ballast casings. With individual color-coded leads, it enables aquarists to easily configure 2-lamp, 3-lamp, or 4-lamp wiring layouts according to official IceCap wiring schematics.
Ideal Replacement Scenario
If your existing ballast wiring has suffered insulation cracking, melted pins, salt creep corrosion at the terminal splices, or if you are moving an IceCap 660 or 430 ballast to a new aquarium canopy, installing the authentic IC-VHOHAR wiring harness ensures safe, reliable ignition and optimal bulb longevity.
(Note: Package includes (1) IceCap 6-Foot VHO Replacement Wire Harness with pre-pinned ballast plug).
What’s Included:
(1) IceCap 6-Foot Replacement VHO Wire Harness (IC-VHOHAR)
Technical Specs:
SKU / Factory Part Identifier: IC-VHOHAR
Harness Length: 6.0 Feet (approx. 1.83 meters)
Ballast Connector: Multi-Pin Polarized Quick-Disconnect Plug
Wire Construction: High-Temperature Rated Stranded Copper Conductor
Insulation Color Coding: Industry-Standard IceCap Color Schema (Red, Blue, Yellow, Orange, Brown)
Primary Compatibility:
IceCap 660 Electronic Ballast (IC-660, IC-VHO660)
IceCap 430 Electronic Ballast (IC-430)
CoralVue 660 Electronic Ballast (CV1613)
Installation & Wiring Guidelines:
Disconnect the main AC power cord to the IceCap ballast and verify the unit is fully depowered before servicing.
Unplug the old wire harness connector from the end plate header of the IceCap ballast.
Review the official IceCap wiring diagram corresponding to your specific lamp count (2-bulb, 3-bulb, or 4-bulb setup) and lamp type (T12 VHO, T5HO, or PC).
Route the new IC-VHOHAR harness leads through canopy raceways, keeping wires away from direct bulb heat.
Strip and splice the individual color-coded leads to your moisture-proof endcaps using marine-grade crimp connectors or soldered connections with heat-shrink tubing.
Push the polarized multi-pin quick-disconnect plug firmly into the ballast socket until fully seated.
Restore AC power to the ballast and verify that all fluorescent lamps ignite evenly without flickering.
Pro Tips:
- Seal Endcap Splices with Marine Heat-Shrink. Fluorescent lighting canopies generate substantial humidity and condensation. When connecting the harness leads to your waterproof endcaps, always use adhesive-lined (marine-grade) heat-shrink tubing over soldered or crimped connections. The inner meltable glue creates an airtight, watertight seal that prevents salt spray from corroding copper wire strands.
- Leave the Jumper Leads Long Until Confirming Bulb Configuration. Different lamp counts require specific lead pairings (for example, tying certain yellow or orange wires together for a 2-lamp versus a 4-lamp layout). Double-check your bulb wiring diagram before cutting any harness wires down to size, ensuring you retain enough wire length for proper routing.